The St. Paddy's Day Post

Yes, I know I'm a little late. But with one day left on the calendar, I figured it was a good way to sum up that oh-so-Irish month of March.

Irish Experience of March #1: St. Patrick's Day

Need we say more?

Plenty of Irish will tell you that St. Patrick's Day is a bigger celebration in the States than it is in Ireland. While that may hold true in accordance with the American adoption of other holidays as opportunities to party, I definitely count my St. Paddy's Day in Galway among my most favorite authentic Irish experiences.

The parade was adorably charming. Local schoolchildren showed off their Irish musical talents, sports teams brandished their skills, and sundry other floats and groups (some yet to be identified) gave us a taste of Galway's communities beyond just the student one! Following the parade, we went (still decked out in our green gear) to Fibber Magee's, where the local students entertained us with Irish drinking songs. The Americans joined in where we knew the words; where we didn't we just linked arms and danced like everyone else!

Here representing the Gaelic sport of hurling is a nightmare of some kind

Irish Experience of March #2: The Galway Farmer's Market
The Galway Farmer's Market is a lovely little pop-up scene that livens the alleyway by St. Nicholas Church. Although I usually end up going every weekend, I thought I would make sure to give it a shout-out in March! Vendors of multicolored scarves, delicious hummus, Claddaugh rings, fishmongers, crepe makers, artists, florists, and farmers all have their wares on display. The busy street becomes aromatic and bright, full of stands and chattering people. After awhile, the faces become familiar. This is no more applicable than with the Doughnut Man. Yes, he's actually referred to as the Doughnut Man, because this man is straight up famous. You haven't lived until you've tried a hand-made, to-order doughnut from this wisecrack character. We make it a goal to grab one nearly every week.

SO DELICIOUS

Fun fact: He makes all of his own clothes!

Irish Experience of March #3: Trad Session
Galway is famous for its buzzing musical community, both professional and local. Instruments used in traditional Irish music (shortened sometimes to "trad") can include: tin whistle, wooden flute, accordion, guitar, piano, bodhran, uilleann pipes, violin/fiddle, harp, concertina, and banjo. Not all of these instruments are ever used at once, and the most popular versions of trad are dance jigs and reels that actually largely influenced Country music in America. One of my friends and I trekked to Monroe's, a hot spot for trad music on Tuesday nights, to see some of the musicians in action. Something that I did not at all expect was the traditional impromptu dancing that accompanied the music session! Couples of all ages danced with joy and precision, and it made for a perfect night.

The picture might be a little fuzzy, but it was perfect--Take my word for it :)

Irish Experience of March #4: Adventure Weekend

Though not specifically Irish by any means, I'm still throwing this one in here. This past weekend all the American students went on a trip sponsored by our program to Carlingford, Ireland for an "Adventure Weekend!" While some aspects were unintentionally adventurous (read: the food), the rest of the activities were great craic. Over two days, we did laser combat in the woods, a high ropes course, archery, and an "indoor dark crawling maze" (claustrophobia at its finest). However, my two favorite activities were the zorbing ones. A zorb is a huge inflatable plastic ball that you fit into in one way or another. "Body zorbing" involved us all donning big inflatable balls that our legs stuck out of, and in which we ran at each other sumo-style and bounced off each other so hard that we often fell to the ground, at which point you felt (and looked) like a turtle stuck on its back. Yet even MORE hilarious than body zorbing was full-sized zorbing! Brittney and I crawled into a huge zorb ball that we had rolled up the hill and, after being securely strapped in on the inside of the ball, went rolling down the hillside. Instead of a stomach-drop feeling, we felt like we were just endlessly tumbling in huge, slow loops; we could not stop laughing, the entire way down. It will definitely go down as one of the funniest physical activities I've had the bizarre chance of doing yet!

Yep that's us in there

The whole gangggg

Public Service Anouncement!

Sorry everyone, just a quick little PSA: The last post I uploaded about Paris didn't have any of my pictures in it! I have edited it now, and it should have all my lovely Parisian pictures. Please check the post out again here if you would like to see! http://bootsandclover.blogspot.ie/2014/03/a-few-days-away-sil-vous-plait.html    My apologies!

A Few Days Away, S'il Vous Plaît!

Bonjour! I am currently en route back to Galway from a little jet-setter trip to Paris! My friend from earlier days (I'm talking All Saints days), Claire Chilton, is studying abroad in Paris this semester, so it's only fitting that I visit her and blow all my money doing more than a little Parisian shopping and dining, right? Added bonus: Sydney Booth flew in all the way from Texas to spend her spring break with Claire! So I was fortunate enough to spend a wonderful few days with friends that had been dearly missed. Not to mention a free place to stay! (Thanks Claire and happy 21st birthday, girl!)

Sydney is SO Parisian

I arrived in the beautiful city Tuesday morning, having been traveling for 8 hours straight. At that point I did not feel like paying for a cab, so I took on the large Metro network to find my way across the city. It went smoothly enough--the Parisian Metro is clean and efficient, if extensive. (Claire said she was proud of me, so I must have done alright!) Sydney and I met Claire for lunch at one of her favorite cafés by her university, Le Gymnase (if I've butchered that, I'm sorry).
Before she arrived, Sydney and I were lost. A majority of Parisians speak English, so we didn't have too much trouble with that; it was more of trying not to offend or make a fool of ourselves which was difficult. The French are, as they are known for, a wee bit snobby. I got more than a few sighs when I asked "parlez-vous anglais?" before proceeding with transactions. Having Claire as our fluent French-speaking guide was our saving grace!

After eating lunch we walked for a little along the tree-lined boulevards. We wandered into the park by the Champs-Élysées, with a sweeping view of the Louvre at one end and the Arc d'Triumph at the other. The sun was shining, the temperature was lovely, and the locals were soaking in the sun. Claire then turned and asked an oh-so-inviting question: "Do y'all like macaroons?" Is the sky blue? Is my name Rachael Graham? The answer was obvious. She spirited us away to the most famous macaroon shop in Paris, Laduree . Let me tell you that it did NOT disappoint. We each had a glass of rosé and four petite macaroons; I got coffee, caramel, rose petal, and pistachio. Those last two were unreal. I'm still dreaming about them.

Afterwards we continued to walk down the Champs-Élysées, which was a shopping Mecca. We were unfairly tempted by the thousands of shops and beautiful clothing. However, after saying "get thee behind me" to the devil in the form of a mid-thigh cut straw colored coat, we moved on. At the end of the Champ we stopped to snap a quick picture of the Arc de Triomphe! It's a shame part of it was under scaffolding, but thankfully this wasn't my first trip to see it :) In fact, that is a quick point I should clarify-- I have been to Paris before with my family a few years ago, so I had already seen all the necessary sites. This is how our time came to be left open for wining, dining, and shopping ;)

We met up with some of Claire's friends to have a sidewalk dinner that was deliciously filling, followed by a street vender crêpe (proooobably the best one I've ever had) filled with Nutella. The night ended with a trip up to the second tier of the Eiffel Tower! Like I said, I have seen the Eiffel before, but I had never been up in it that high. It was beautifully lit and gave a grand view of the city of love under the stars. I was so tired by the time we got home that evening that I think I was asleep before my head hit the pillow. 

The next day began with Sydney and I clad in our Raybans on the prowl for some brunch while Claire went to take an exam for her French phonetics class. Again, the sun was miraculously shining, and it got up to a warm 65 by noon! Despite the warmth of spring, the Parisians continued to strut in their sleek black clothes, looking perfectly haute. Sydney and I blended well with our blue and burgundy tops and  bright blonde hair....

We then wandered about and got coffee until Claire rejoined us. We rode the metro over to another district to pop into a few cute boutiques and met up with a few of her friends again. Claire had told me about something uniquely Parisian she had been wanting to do since arriving in France: creating a personalized perfume! In the city world famous for its alluring and intricate scents, I found the prospect undeniable. We got an appointment for four o' clock at Le Studio des Parfums, a delightful little salon that had a perfume organ (scent range) of over 250 essences, all lined up and labeled in little bottles in tiers around the edges of a vanity. Over the next two hours I received a thorough crash course in refining the olfactory sense in broken English from the kind owner. I was initially given a set of 16 unmarked, unlabeled, tiny bottles and were told to our two favorites. These strains would be the basis for the tone we aimed for. The perfumer identified mine as a woodsy, slightly amber base with light notes of florals, and strove to help me create that scent throughout the process. We moved on to identifying combinations of bottom notes, or the base scents that would be most identifiable when you wear the perfume. I feel like I endlessly picked up bottle after bottle, wafting it under my nose, feeling immediate warmth or sharp dislike with each. It's intriguing how decisive a smell can be. I ended up with 5 base layers combined: lichen, vanilla, a hint of tobacco, amber, and something roughly translated as "musk of florals," whatever that means. It was a deliciously woodsy and was so strong that it sent my head spinning. We then repeated the process for the middle and top notes. For the middle, I think I had rosemary, lemon citrus, a warm floral scent that smelled too strongly on its own but yielded when mixed, lavender, and Thai woods. When blended, it smelled to me like a spring garden: earthy with light tones of blooming flowers. For the top notes I had a rather interesting combination that the perfumer suggested but that I never would have picked out on my own: Green tea, bamboo, Japanese hakone grass, and something called "fruit complex." Finally I carefully poured different measures of each scent into test tubes and stirred it, breathing it in. My perfumer smelled it and closed her eyes for a second, then told me exactly how many drops to add of various scents that needed a boost. With my final personalized scent created and bottled, she asked me what I would like to name it. I said my name, but pronounced the way the Parisians had been saying it, with the -ch softened into an -sh and lingering on the last half with an -elle sound. So we left out the "e" to make it the French "Rachel." I seriously hope someone asks me what perfume I'm wearing some day so I can say, in my worst French accent, "Et iz Rachel from Pari." Lol. In all seriousness though, it was one of the most intriguing and truly cultural experiences I had in France! I'd highly recommend it for anyone who wants to give it a whirl!

That night we had some falafel and more macaroons which I munched on in the metro and were perfect conclusions for my lovely trip in Paris. It definitely felt much longer than two days, and it made me giddy to be able to rendezvous in Europe with Claire and Sydney! Needless to say, we felt glamorous, cultured, and very grown up ;).  While Paris may not be good for the ego or the wallet, it is a fabulous treat for the senses, and I'm grateful for the wonderful time I could spend there. However, I have to get myself back to Irish culture for the big weekend we've all been waiting for. It's St. Patty's Weekend, people!! I am SO excited to see what's in store for the island's biggest holiday. A blog post about it will follow shortly! Until then, merci et au revoir!!

The Best Craic: Phrases, Food, and Fun in Galway

If ever you ask an Irishman about his or her favorite pub in Galway, do not be alarmed if they tack on to the end of their speech, "The lads have the greatest crack there at Fibber Magees." The first time I heard this, I was--needless to say--taken aback. But have no fear of illicit drugs, for what they are actually saying is the Irish word craic--and that's a good thing! It can stand in to mean any general sort of fun, entertainment, or simply great times. This is one of the most excellent examples of the way in which a blending of two languages can form a version of English all its own. (As they said to us in our orientation: You thought you'd come to and English speaking country, eh? Well you don't know this language quite yet.)

Look at all these Irish people goin happy out, havin a whale of a time. "Ahh, it was great craic at The Quays last night!"

Irish slang is a beautiful, if tricky, thing to master. It can vary from everyday phrases to specific technical terms.

• On one end of the spectrum are simple terms like grand (used instead of great or fine)  or thanks a million and cheers (instead of thanks or thank you). I always feel sheepish when I use these in daily transactions, as if every Irish person in the room will suddenly turn and mock me for my attempts to blend in. Of course, no one does. 
• Other words are simply not used in America, such as jumper (instead of sweater or sweatshirt) or chips (instead of fries) and crisps (instead of chips) or shifting (to mean kissing someone)! 
• Some phrases are simply unique and can be confusing. Yer man can refer to any specified man at all, as to be discovered through context ("Yer man there can fix your phone for ye" could refer to a repair man, not your boyfriend). Good man and good on ya are often said in praise of another, especially in a friendly, warm way.
• However, the most difficult language of all the Irish turns of the tongue are those that have to do with sarcasm. The Irish revel in sarcasm, and you will not be the first nor the last to be confused by the casual and constant use of it. I will yea usually means "I definitely won't" for example, but no tone or expression change will occur to convey the sarcastic tint. Even more confusing is the phrase slagging. Slagging is a form of banter back and forth between two people in which they relentlessly mock each other, but none of it is ever truly meant to insult. It often results in great hilarity, because the wit of these people is astounding. (Hint: If someone is slagging on you, don't be offended--that means they like you and are being friendly, and sometimes even more than friendly!)

Now me using these phrases incorrectly or correctly doesn't hide my nationality. In fact, my accent doesn't even matter. I have had people walk up to me and ask me where I'm from in the States before I've even opened my mouth to betray myself. I've been told (upon me asking of course, because I was slightly annoyed to know that it's that obvious) that Americans have a certain look about them. It is true, in a way; Irish often have small noses and high foreheads, with either very dark or red hair. I have none of those. We also dress differently. I constantly feel far too preppy here and to them I feel like I must look like I walked out of a J Crew magazine. 
None of this is too terrible though, because young Irish people love Americans. I mean it. Some of the older people are slightly more wary of foreigners, but the young ones I meet out and about are always eager to hear where I'm from, what my life is like back home, how do I like it in Ireland, etc., etc. And when I tell them I'm from Texas, it's like all hell breaks loose, perhaps because they have a stereotype of the place already in mind. I have actually had people yell "OH MY GOD YOU'RE ACTUALLY FROM TEXAS?" on more than one occasion. Other people remember me by "that girl from Texas." The cherry on top is when I'm actually wearing my boots to prove it ;)

Something that any native Irish will tell you is that this country is not known for its food. Well, that's the truth. Though the food isn't bad by any means, there are few specialties that would interest a foodie. If I had to make two suggestions, it would be these:

1. Fish and chips. On a coastal town like Galway, the fish is unbelievably tasty. You can't go wrong with this classic, especially when you get it from McDonough's.
2. Guinness Stew. The two things that Irish are (if stereotypically) great at, its definitely potatoes and beer. This beef stew combines both of those for the most hearty and delicious dish you'll come across in Ireland.

Lastly, I must speak of those great Irish establishments that tie all of these things together: pubs. Pubs, in Ireland, are truly the social hubs of the community. They are where the craic is. Everyone, and I mean everyone, goes to the pubs at some point in the week to sit with friends and have a pint or two. It's where you'll hear the most lively conversation and stories imaginable, and laugh till you cry at the hilarity of the Irish both young and old. It's where you'll catch the big game and commiserate with total strangers over the wins and losses of the ole Eire, or listen to a traditional Irish music session. It is honestly true that Irish people drink an unbelievable amount. However, there is much, much less of a stigma attached to drinking here than there is in the US. In fact, it's not really the Guinness that gives Irish pubs their reputation: it's the social, friendly warmth so exemplary of the Irish character that make these places the brimming life of the country.

Tig Coili, as its name would suggest, is one of the much more traditional pubs in Galway. Here you'll find locals that have been coming in for a pint for twenty years on.

If you're looking for liveliness and general good atmosphere, Fibber Magees (above) and Hole In The Wall (below) are always popular with local college students (dancing can be found at each as well!)

Last, but certainly not least, is The Quays. The Quays is definitely my favorite pub in all of Galway. If you're ever through this way, it's a mandatory stop: The blend of ages inspires impromptu conversations about everything under the sun, the two floors are laid out perfectly for general roaming and sitting areas, and the bands nightly play on a balcony above the entire crowd. It's always a sure hit, and the best place for a pint and a smile!