The Best Craic: Phrases, Food, and Fun in Galway

If ever you ask an Irishman about his or her favorite pub in Galway, do not be alarmed if they tack on to the end of their speech, "The lads have the greatest crack there at Fibber Magees." The first time I heard this, I was--needless to say--taken aback. But have no fear of illicit drugs, for what they are actually saying is the Irish word craic--and that's a good thing! It can stand in to mean any general sort of fun, entertainment, or simply great times. This is one of the most excellent examples of the way in which a blending of two languages can form a version of English all its own. (As they said to us in our orientation: You thought you'd come to and English speaking country, eh? Well you don't know this language quite yet.)

Look at all these Irish people goin happy out, havin a whale of a time. "Ahh, it was great craic at The Quays last night!"

Irish slang is a beautiful, if tricky, thing to master. It can vary from everyday phrases to specific technical terms.

• On one end of the spectrum are simple terms like grand (used instead of great or fine)  or thanks a million and cheers (instead of thanks or thank you). I always feel sheepish when I use these in daily transactions, as if every Irish person in the room will suddenly turn and mock me for my attempts to blend in. Of course, no one does. 
• Other words are simply not used in America, such as jumper (instead of sweater or sweatshirt) or chips (instead of fries) and crisps (instead of chips) or shifting (to mean kissing someone)! 
• Some phrases are simply unique and can be confusing. Yer man can refer to any specified man at all, as to be discovered through context ("Yer man there can fix your phone for ye" could refer to a repair man, not your boyfriend). Good man and good on ya are often said in praise of another, especially in a friendly, warm way.
• However, the most difficult language of all the Irish turns of the tongue are those that have to do with sarcasm. The Irish revel in sarcasm, and you will not be the first nor the last to be confused by the casual and constant use of it. I will yea usually means "I definitely won't" for example, but no tone or expression change will occur to convey the sarcastic tint. Even more confusing is the phrase slagging. Slagging is a form of banter back and forth between two people in which they relentlessly mock each other, but none of it is ever truly meant to insult. It often results in great hilarity, because the wit of these people is astounding. (Hint: If someone is slagging on you, don't be offended--that means they like you and are being friendly, and sometimes even more than friendly!)

Now me using these phrases incorrectly or correctly doesn't hide my nationality. In fact, my accent doesn't even matter. I have had people walk up to me and ask me where I'm from in the States before I've even opened my mouth to betray myself. I've been told (upon me asking of course, because I was slightly annoyed to know that it's that obvious) that Americans have a certain look about them. It is true, in a way; Irish often have small noses and high foreheads, with either very dark or red hair. I have none of those. We also dress differently. I constantly feel far too preppy here and to them I feel like I must look like I walked out of a J Crew magazine. 
None of this is too terrible though, because young Irish people love Americans. I mean it. Some of the older people are slightly more wary of foreigners, but the young ones I meet out and about are always eager to hear where I'm from, what my life is like back home, how do I like it in Ireland, etc., etc. And when I tell them I'm from Texas, it's like all hell breaks loose, perhaps because they have a stereotype of the place already in mind. I have actually had people yell "OH MY GOD YOU'RE ACTUALLY FROM TEXAS?" on more than one occasion. Other people remember me by "that girl from Texas." The cherry on top is when I'm actually wearing my boots to prove it ;)

Something that any native Irish will tell you is that this country is not known for its food. Well, that's the truth. Though the food isn't bad by any means, there are few specialties that would interest a foodie. If I had to make two suggestions, it would be these:

1. Fish and chips. On a coastal town like Galway, the fish is unbelievably tasty. You can't go wrong with this classic, especially when you get it from McDonough's.
2. Guinness Stew. The two things that Irish are (if stereotypically) great at, its definitely potatoes and beer. This beef stew combines both of those for the most hearty and delicious dish you'll come across in Ireland.

Lastly, I must speak of those great Irish establishments that tie all of these things together: pubs. Pubs, in Ireland, are truly the social hubs of the community. They are where the craic is. Everyone, and I mean everyone, goes to the pubs at some point in the week to sit with friends and have a pint or two. It's where you'll hear the most lively conversation and stories imaginable, and laugh till you cry at the hilarity of the Irish both young and old. It's where you'll catch the big game and commiserate with total strangers over the wins and losses of the ole Eire, or listen to a traditional Irish music session. It is honestly true that Irish people drink an unbelievable amount. However, there is much, much less of a stigma attached to drinking here than there is in the US. In fact, it's not really the Guinness that gives Irish pubs their reputation: it's the social, friendly warmth so exemplary of the Irish character that make these places the brimming life of the country.

Tig Coili, as its name would suggest, is one of the much more traditional pubs in Galway. Here you'll find locals that have been coming in for a pint for twenty years on.

If you're looking for liveliness and general good atmosphere, Fibber Magees (above) and Hole In The Wall (below) are always popular with local college students (dancing can be found at each as well!)

Last, but certainly not least, is The Quays. The Quays is definitely my favorite pub in all of Galway. If you're ever through this way, it's a mandatory stop: The blend of ages inspires impromptu conversations about everything under the sun, the two floors are laid out perfectly for general roaming and sitting areas, and the bands nightly play on a balcony above the entire crowd. It's always a sure hit, and the best place for a pint and a smile!